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When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.